
Class _XT &05 
Book 



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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 





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> : ■■ ' .SOI CURI I P.. en A 



THE 



SUPREME SYSTEM 



OF 



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T 


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N 



AND 



TROUSERS 



BY 



FRED'K T. CROONBORG 



PU BLISHED BY 



FRED'K T. CROONBORG 
Chicago, Illinois. 



THE LIBRARY OF 


CONGRESS, 


Two Copies 


deceived 


AUG 10 


1903 

Entry 


Copyngnt 


CLASS 4- 


-><[o£> 

XXc.No. 


L, L o 


«• L 


COPY 


B. 






CONTENTS. 



Photograph of Author 

Contents ..... 

Preface ..... 

Preliminary Remarks and Laws of Proportion 

How to take Measures 

Theorizing .... 

Theory . 

Proportionate Trousers 

Peg Top Trousers 

Spring Bottom Trousers 

Full Dress Trousers 

Trousers for Corpulent Subject 

Trousers without outside seam 

VARIATIONS. — Open and Close Trous- 
ers, — Bow-Legged and Knock Kneed 

Trousers with Long and Short Front- 
Large and Flat Seat . 



PAGE 




2 




4 




5 




6 




7 


s 


9 


IO, 


1 1 


12, 


13 


14. 


15 


16, 


17 


iS, 


91 


20, 


21 


22, 


23 


24, 


25 


26, 


27 



Combination Large Hip Seat and Bow- 

Legged . . . . . 8, g 

Combination Small Hip, Flat Seat and 
Knock Kneed 

Bicycle Trousers .... 

Knickers with Cuff attached 

Riding Breeches .... 

Leggins and Overgaiters . 

Broad Falls and Split Falls 

Trousers Grade .... 

Appendix ..... 

Proportionate Inseam Table 

Pattern Price List .... 

The Fashionable Cutter and Tailor's Gazette 

The Fred'k T. Crooonborg School of Garment- 
Cutting .... 46 



30, 


4i 


32, 


33 


34- 


35 


36, 


37 




38 




39 


40, 


41 




42 




43 




44 




45 



PREFACE. 



While there havebeen trousers systems published before in book form, I believe the field sufficiently 
large and the requirements sufficiently plenty to encourage me in placing my own product before 
the trade. This idea has also received much encouragement from the many flattering testimonials 
received from the output of my first work. I do not claim extraordinary results to accrue from the 
use of the Supreme Trousers System, but I do claim that it embodies an easy and simple principle, and 
will produce a comfortable and good fitting pair of trousers. 

In actual practice I have discovered that perfect fitting trousers cannot be obtained by cutting 
from a system alone, for the reason that there are many problems in attitude that cannot be measured 
and can only be ascertained by mental and optical judgement 

These variations I have attempted to clearly depicit in as simple a manner as possible, and I con- 
scientiously believe that if the student will carefully peruse the ideas advocated in this volume and place 
them in daily practice they cannot fail to win the title of a successful trousers cutter. 

Tin-: Author. 




PRELIMINARY REMARKS AND LAWS OF PROPORTION. 

In selecting a model for practice let us choose a proportionate with the exception of those who 
require variations from the regular formula. In drafting use only the regular square with the usual 
divisions of halves, fourths, eighths, thirds, sixths and twelfths on the same. 

A proportionate subject is supposed to measure five inches less over the waist than over the seat. 
The thigh measure is obtained by £ and ft of the seat measure; in measuring it should be taken snug. 
The length is governed by the height, the knee and bottom by style. The following measures are 
therefore adopted : 

Outside, 42 inches 
Inside, 32 " 

," being 5 inches more than waist. 



Waist 


32 


Seat 


37 


Thigh 


21$ 


Knee 


18 



Bottom 16 

With five inches accepted as the normal difference between the waist and seat, and h and 1/12 of 
the seat measure extra for the circumference of thigh, it must be understood that any increase or de- 
crease from the same will indicate that the subject is disproportionate and should be divided equally 
at the front and sides. 

Experience has demonstrated that there should be a certain proportionate advance at waist, there- 
fore, when your measures registers five inches less at waist than over the seat the front of waist should 
be \ inch beyond the front from where the seat measure is applied. 

K is front of waist. 

F is part of front where seat measure is applied. (See diagram of proportionate trousers.) 

This rule holds good for proportionate trousers, and only when the waist measure increases or de- 
creases beyond the normal, or when the attitude of the figure requires it should there be any increase 
or decrease from this \ inch. 

In squaring up from point H as indicated on the normal draft, and by applying the waist measure, 
as per instruction, the front of waist will adjust itself and will be found \ inch beyond point F. 

The balance line from H to T determines the balance of the trousers from the hip down to the bottom, 
and is located by \ of the seat measure on the divisions from B to I for a proportionate subject; but 
is subject to variation for large and fmall hips or as generally teimtd open and close trousers, also for 
1 K iw-legged and kin >ek-kneed , for which full directions will be found further on under the head of "OPEN 
AND CLOSE, BOW-LEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED." 

The dress added to the front part as indicated from F to S should be 1/24 of the seat measure on 
the divisions. Particular care should be exercised in curving the fork. 

Point T on the proportionate draft is \ seat measure from F on the normal, but is subject to 
variation for large and small seat. 

Point W i>n the back part is found by 1/12 seat measure plus A inch for two seams from S on the 
1 1 < .m j iart . This p< lint is also subject to variation in connection with large or small seat for which full 
directions will be given further on in diagram headed "LARGE AND SMALL SEAT". All allowances for 
seams and make-up is extended on the back part. The front part is produced by direct measure. 
For proportionate inseam, dress, measure and height, see table of proportions especially arranged 
for this purpose. 



HOW TO TAKE MEASURE. 

Measuring means the application of the measuring tape on the different parts of the body and to 
fix and ascertain that one part or station is so many inches from another. If the space differs either 
to one side or another from the given quantities, the surface on which the measures were applied is 
either larger i >r smaller than the normal size. This is the theory of measuring and should be so understood . 

first take the measure of the outside length. Place the end of the tape at the height of waist or 
just above the hip-bone on which the trousers are intended to rest, measuring down to the heel. 

Next take the measure for the in-seam. Be sure to get your tape well up in the crotch, measur- 
ing down to the heel. 

The waist measure should be taken medium snug. 

The seat measure should also be taken medium snug. 

Knee and bottom measures should be taken in accordance with the prevailing style. 

After the measures are taken be sure to note all the pecularities, such as, bow-legs, knock- 
knees, large seat, flat seat, right dress or left dress. 

Ask your customerto placehisfeet close together so that Iris heels touch; in this position if he is 
bow-legged he cannot close the legs at the knee. 

Place your hand between the knees and ascertain in what degree he may be bow-legged. 

Be sure to note all other irregularities in shape as it will greatly assist you in drafting a good 
fitting pattern. 



DEGREES OF VARIATION. 

In daily practice one comes in contact with many figures thai vary in attitude from the normal 
form, seme greater and some less than others but all varying from the normal position to some 
extent. The degree of variation must be determined by a careful survey of the figure by the eye. 
Variations can be all classed in three degrees, namely: first, second and third. 

For long and short front and large and flat seat the first degree means an inclination of i inch, 
the second degree means an inclination of 1 inch and the third or extreme inclination would be 
f inch. 

For open and close, bow-legged and km ck-kneed the first degree means an inclination of \ inch, 
the second degree an inclination of 1 inch, and the third or extreme inclination of 1-1^ inches, 

In placing the measurements in the measure-book always state the degree of disproportion oi 
your client. 




THEORIZING. 

While we want to study the practical way of cutting trousers it is necessary to study the system- 
atical method as well. Proportions of the human form are the main factors and should be studied first 
of all. For this reason I have drawn up the accompaning diagrams and by studying the samethe student 
will be more able to grasp the ideas. 

The large circle represents the circumference of the seat and is obtained by \ of the seat measure 
using point F as pivot, 

Rule a line from K. to R through F. 

Draw a horizontal line through F, there by finding point C. 

Square up and down from C. 

Square back and forth from K. 

I to R. is the inside length desired. 

Square back and forth from R. 

F to G is h of the seat measure' being the proper distance for the fork of the front part. 

Make a circle from G, using point F as your pivot. 

G to S is 2 '., of the seat measure, which is the extension allowed for the dress. 

.Make a circle around from S, using point F as a pivot. 

Divide the distance between G and C finding point II. 

Square up from II. 

Rto I is I of the width desired at the bottom. 

Rule a line from H to I. 

D is half way between R and F. 

D to is 2 inches. This is the knee. 

The circle at M represents the circumference of knee. 

Make a circle from R using point I as the pivot. 

This circle represents the circumference of bottom. 

Ride a line from C to P. 

K to L is | of the waist measure. 

Shape from L to C. 

F to T is ':-; of the seat measure. 

Shape from T to G and T to S. 

These are all points and divisi< ns used tor a proportionate front part. 



THEORIZING. 



i 




THEORY. Continued. 

In this diagram as in the former, the large represents the circumference 
of the seat. 

The front parts are obtained in the same manner as explained in 
1 he former diagram. 

Now let us proceed with the back parts. 

Rule a line from T to C and square up from T by that line. 

S to II is -,', of the seat measure plus \ inch. 

Make a circle from 11 using point F as the pivot. This will give you 
the proper stride on the back part. 

The distance from N to V, and to U are \ inch each, and represent 
two seams. 

Allow two seams on each side of the back part at the bottom. 

Sweep from L to X using point T as the pivot. 

This will give you the height at the back as X indicates. 

Sweep from L t«> Y using point N as the pivot, 

X to 2 is \ of the waist measure plus 1 inch. 

X to Y is J your scat measure plus 1 inch. 

The difference between the waist and seat, as '_' to Y indicates are 
taken out in the V on the back part. 

(' to Z is IV inches allowed for ease over the seat. 

Shape up the back part from Y to X, X to T, T to 11, II to U and 
down to the bottom. 

Shape from Y to Z, Z to V and down to the bottom. It will be 
i barb seen that all seams are provided for in the back part. 

These are proportions and should be so understood and changes from 
the same should only be made lor disproportionate subjects for which 
you will find full directions farther on. 



10 



THEORY. Continued. 




n 



PROPORTIONATE TROUSERS. 



Measurements used are as follows : 
( lutside length 12 inches. 

[nside length 32 

Waist 32 

Seat 37 

Knee 18 

Bottom 16 

Front Part. 
To Draft. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to Bis the outside length or 42 inches. 

1! to C is the inside length or 32 inches. 

D is half way between B and C. 

D to E is 2 inches. 

Square out C, E and B. 

C to F is -V of the scat measure. 

F to G is 1/1 2 < if the seat measure. 

G to S is 1 24 of the seat measure'. 

B to I is t cf the seat measure. 

H is half way be1 ween C and G. 

Square up from 1 1. 

Rule a line from H to I. 

| to K is \ of the waist measure. 

j to L is \ of the waist, measure. 

1 to R is on the fourths of the bottom measure. 

1 to P is i ai the f< iurths of the 1 >< >tt< >m measure. 

M to D is on the fourths of the knee measure. 

M to N is on the fourths of the knee measure. 

Draw a line from to R. 

Draw a line from N to P. 

Shape as indicated from I. to (' and down to X. 

1 )raw a line from F to K. 

F to T is I of the seat measure. 

Shape as indicated from K to S, extending ] 
inch at T. 

Shape as indicated In >m S to < I. 

Shape as indicated by dotted line from k to G, 
reducing \ inch at T. 



Shape from G to 0. 
I to <J is 1 inch. 

Shape bottom from P to 9 and R. 
This completes the front part. 
Cut out the- front part, place same upon another 
paper and commence to draw the 
Back Part. 

Square across at knee and bottom. 

Sweep from S to W, using point as the pivot. 

Sweep fn im L to A' using point X as the pivot. 

Sweep from L to X, using point T as the pivot. 

Place the corner of square at T and let long arm 
of the same rest on C and square up from T, rind- 
ing point X. 

Rule a line from T to C. 

C to Z is \l inches. 

S to W is ,'., of the seat measure plus I inch. 

X to 2 is \ of the waist measure on the divisions 
plus 1 inch. 

X to Y is \ the seat measure on the divisions 
plus 1 inch. 

X to CJ is \ of the knee measure plus \ inch. 

to Vis j of the knee measure plus \ inch. 

P to .'! is \ of the bottom measure plus \ inch. 

R to I is \ i >f the bottom measure plus \ inch . 

Rule a line from V to Z, V to 4 and U to 3. 

Shape as indicated from Y to Z,V and down to 4. 

Shape from W to U and down to 3. 

Shape from 4 to 3. 

Shape from X to T and down to W. 

The V taken out at A is the same as the dis- 
tance between 2 and Y minus 2 seams. 

Shape back part from Y to A and ] to X". 

Finish as represented. 

When thigh measure is used in this connection 
1 apply one half of the same from C to G on the 
front part. 



r 



12 



PROPORTIONATE TROUSERS. 




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snrt 



tr 



¥ 



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c 



to 




13 



PEG TOP TROUSERS. 



Measures used as follows: 
( tutside 

Inside 
\Vais1 

Scat 
Knee 
I '.( ittom 



12 inches. 

32 " 
32 " 
37 " 
20 " 
15 " 



To Draft. 

All systematical points are obtained in the same manner as in the 
previous draft with a few exceptions. 

From (' tn 7 is : , ; inch on the front part. 

Rule a line from 7 to P as indicated. 

Rule a line In mi G to R and igm ire knee measure on the front part. 

Shape from L to 7 and down to N. 

On the back part extend , : inch from 10 to Z. Measure off the knee 
and bottom the same as in foregoing draft. 

Shape as indicated from Y", Z, E and down to the bottom. 

With these few exceptions the PEG TOP TROUSERS are drawn 
exactly the same as the normal. 




U 



PEG TOP TROUSERS. 




15 



SPRING BOTTOM TROUSERS. 

The following are the measurements used : 

Outside 42 inches. 

Inside 32 

Waist 32 

Seat 37 

Knee 17 

Bottom 19 

To Draft. 

All systematical points are obtained in the same manner as in an 
ordinary pair of trousers with a few exceptions. 

Make your bottom of front part proportionate with your knee that is 
to say, if the knee were 17, I would cut the bottom of front part accord- 
ing to 15, being 2 inches less than at the knee which is proportionate. 

The extension should be on the back part. 

Cut the front part about f inch longer at I than the squared out line 
from B indicates. 

Apply tlie knee and bottom measure in the same manner as previously 
explained. 

B to 8 is 4 inches. 

7 is half way between E and 8. 

Square out 7 and 8. 

Place the heaviest part of the calf at 7 and start the shaping of 
spring from 8 down. Extend more of a calf in this kind of trousers than 
in the ordinary, especially on the outside, and a little on the inside as well. 

Shape bottom of back part as indicated from B to I and I to 3. 

In other respects these trousers are drawn exactly the same as the 
normal. 



lb 



SPRING BOTTOM TROUSERS 




17 



FULL DRESS TROUSERS. 



The following arc the measurements used: 
Outside 4 U inches. 
Inside 32 
Waist :;i 
.Scat 36 

Knee 18 

Bottom 154 
To Draft. 
All systematical points arc obtained in the same manner as in the 
regular trousers, the only exception is, that the measures should be taken 
a trifle closer. 

No V is taken out of the hack part ami the waist band is extended to 
tlie top. 

Braid is placed at the outside scam. 

As a ride there are no pockets in the front, but if any, they should be 
side pi >ckcts. 

There is no material difference between the dress trousers and the 
iii irmal. 








18 



FULL DRESS TROUSERS 




19 



TROUSERS FOR CORPULENT SUBJECT. 



The following measurements arc used: 

( lutside 43 inches. 

Inside 31^ 

Waist 45" " 

Abdomen 47 

Seat 44 " 

Thigh 264 " 

Knee 20 " 

Bottom 1 7 

To Draft. 

A In B is the outside length. 

B to C is the inside length. 

D is half way between B and C. 

D to E is 2 inches. 

Square 1 >ut < ', E and B. 

C to F is i seat measure on the divisions 

F to G is i'j seal measure. 

G to S is 1/2 I seat measure. 

B to I is % seat measure. 

H is half way between C and G. 

Square up from H. 

Rule a line from H to I. 

J to 8 is \ waist measure. 

J to L is \ waist measure. 

Square up from P. 

Rule a line from F to 8. 

8 to 7 is the same distance as from 8 to K. 

I to R is \ of the bottom measure. 

I to P is \ of the bottom measure. 

M to O is ', of the knee measure. 

M to X is \ of the knee measure. 
Test your thigh measure between C and <i on 
the halves of the divisions. 

If your thigh measure is more than your pro- 
portionate add \ the amount at G and the other 
half at C; and if less, reduce £ at G and the other 
half at C. 

Rule a line from to R. 

Rule a line from N to P. 

Shape as dotted line indicates from L to C and N. 
F to T is i of the seat measure. 

Shape from [', to 7 and shape your fork from 
7 tn T and S. extending ', inch at T. 



Shape as indicated from 7 to T and G and 
reduce \ inch at T. 

Shape from S to and J to 0. 

1 to 9 is 1 inch. 

Shape fn>m P to 9 and R. 

This completes the front part. 

Place your front part on another paper and 
commence drafting the 

BACK PART. 

Square across at knee and bottom. 

Sweep from S to W by using point <> as the 
pivot. 

Sweep from L to Y using point X as the pivot. 

Place corner of square at T, let long arm of the 
same rest on C and square up from T, finding 
point X. 

Sweep up from L to X using pi int T as the pivot. 

S to W is fa of the seat measure plus \ inch. 

X to U is \ of the knee measure plus \ inch. 

O to V is \ of the knee measure plus § inch. 

P to 3 is 1 of the bottom measure plus \ inch. 

R to 1 is ! of the bottom measure plus \ inch. 

Apply seat measure plus If inches from F to 
C and T to Z. 

X to Y is \ waist plus 1 inch. 

Test the seat measure between X and Y in this 
connection same as in the proportionate trousers, 
and if there is any difference between the scat and 
waist take ou1 a V at A; but if there is no dif- 
ference a V should no1 be taken out. 

Apply the measure over the abdomen aboul 
r>\ inches below the waist-line as the square across 
line indicates on the front part, and apply in the 
same manner to the back part, and add one inch 
for seams. 

Shape I'ri >m Y to Z, V and down to 4. 

Shape from Wto U, and down to 3. 

Shape In un 1 t< 1 •'!. 

Shape fp mi X tn T and W. 

Shape from Y to X and finish as represented. 



•>0 



TROUSERS FOR CORPULENT SUBJECT. 




i^iidfc^ik— Jb 



21 



TROUSERS WITHOUT OUTSIDE SEAM. 

Measurements used : 

< lutside 4:2 inches. 

Inside .'!'_' 

Waist 32 " 

Scat 37 

Knee \s\ " 

Bottom 16 

To Draft. 
Square out and down from A. 
A to B is the outside length. 
B to (' is the inside length. 
D is half way between B and ('. 
I ) to E is '_' inches. 
Square out (\ E and B. 
('to P is on the halves of the seat measure. 
F to (1 is /o of tile seat, measure. 
I! to I is 1 of the bottom measure. 
11 is half way between C and <!. 

Rule a line from I to II and up to J. This is the balance line. 
Square hark and forth from II. 

Square hack and forth from M and square back and forth from I. 
Square back and forth from J, all by the balance line. 
J to K and J to L are each j of the waist measure. 
M to ( ) and M to E are each j of the knee measure. 
1 to R is ] of the bottom measure. 
( i t< ) S is I 24 ( if the seat measure. 
F to T is I of the seat measure. 

Shape from L to C, L to K and K to S, allowing ', inch at T 
Shapefrom S to < » and down to R. 
Shape from K to T down to < r. 
Reduce ] inch at T and shape from ( 1 to ( ). 
1 to 9 is one inch. 
Shape from B to 9 and B. 

Back Part. 

T to 10 and C to ] 1 are each 11 inches. 

Place corner of square at 10, let long arm of the same rest on I I and 
square up from 10, finding point X 

Rule a line from 10 to 11. 

Sweep from S to W using point ( ) as a pivot. 

Sweep out from L to Y, using point E as the pivot. 

Sweep up from L using point. 10 as the pivot. 

S to W is ,'._, of the seat measure, plus 2 inches. 

O to U is one inch. 

R to ") is 1 inch. 

Shape from W to U and down to 5. 

X to 2 is \ <>f the waist measure, on the divisions plus 1 inch. 

X to Y is \ of the seat measure, on the divisiens plus 1 inch. 

Take out a V at 6, amounting to the distance between 2 and V, minus 
two seams. 

Shape from Y to Z, Y to 6, <> to X, X to 10 and 10 to W. 

Shape bottom as indicated and finish as represented. 

22 



TROUSERS WITHOUT OUTSIDE SEAM. 

X 

6 




23 



VARIATIONS. 

OPEN AND CLOSE TROUSERS. 

The solid line indicates the normal front part and is drawn in the 
same manner as the regulations heretofore explained. 

Should your subject have a small or large hip it would indicate that 
you will either have to give him an open or close pair of trousers. 

The large hip subject requires close trousers and is obtained by 
moving the balance line about 1 inch from 1 to 3 . 

Draw a line from II to .'! and let the inside and outside seam follow 
the balance line; this will give you a close pair of trousers or those 
for a person that has a large hip. 

Should your subject have a small hip and stand with his legs apart 
place your balance line back 1 inch as I to 2 indicates. 

Draw a line from II to 2 and let outside and inside scam follow the 
balance line; this will produce an open pair of trousers or a pair that 
i uitable f< >r < >ne win > has a small hip. 

BOW-LEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED 

The solid line represents the normal trout part. Should the subject 
be bow-legged advance 1 inch from I to U. 

Rule a line from M to U. Accept this as your balance line and meas- 
ure up from U on front part at bottom. 

For knock-kneed come back I inch from I to V. 

Rule a line from M to V. 

V would be your balance line for the knock-kneed. 

Measure up the front part at the bottom from V and you have a 
kni ck-kneed pair of trousers. 




24 



OPEN AND CLOSE 



BOW-LEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED. 





25 



TROUSERS WITH LONG AND SHORT FRONT. 

To Draft. 
LONG FRONT. 

The proportionate front part is obtained in the usual manner 

F toT is I of the scat measure. 

Square back from T finding point Q. 

For the long front trousers in the third degree come back from 8 to 7 
f inch. 

Rule a line from Q to 7. 

Square out by same line from Q finding point U and I. 

Square up from U. finding point Z. 

Square back and forth from Z. 

Z to X and from Z to 4 are each ) of the waist measure. 

Rule a line from 1 to X. 

Shape from X to 1 and down to S. 

Shape from 4 to Q and you will have the long front to the trousers, 
which is generally found in connection with a flat seat. 

SHORT FRONT. 

The short front which usually gi es in connection with a large scat is 
obtained in just the opposite manner. 
A to 5 is 1 inch. 
Rule a line from "> to O. 

Square out from Q by same line and find points V and 8. 
Square up from V finding point Y. 
Square back and forth from Y. 

Y to W and Y to 2 are each { of the waist measure. 
1 >raw a line from S to W and shape from 2 to Q. 
Shape fork as indicated and finish as represented. 

LARGE SEAT AND FLAT SEAT. 

LARGE SEAT. 

Raise y< iut pi tint from T to 8 j inch . 

Place the corner of the square at S and let Ion- arm of the same rest 
on C. 

Rule a line from 8 to C and square up finding point 1. 

Sweep up from L, using point 8 as the pivot. 

W is the normal point in the fork. 

Advance i the distance between T and 8 from W to 11. 

Shape from 7 to s and from 8 to 11. 

Apply the waist measure in the regular way from 7 to .">. 

Shape from 5 to Z and down to Y as indicated. 

This will produce trousers for a subject with a large seat. 

FLAT SEAT. 

Xow. let us sav that we have a subject with a Hat seat in the 3rd 
degree and proceed just the opposite way. 
T to '.) is § inch. 

I 'lace the comer of square at 9, let long arm of the same rest on C. 
Rule a line from !) to C and square up from finding point 7. 
Sweep up from L using point «) as your pivot finding point 1. 
W to 10 is \ the distance between T and 9. 
Apply the waist measure in the regular manner from 1 to 2 
Shape fr< mi 1 ti » !». '.» t< > 10 and 10 to 11 . 
Shape from 2 to Z and down to V as indicated. 
Tins will produce trousers for a person with a flat seat. 



86 



LONG AND SHORT FRONT 



LARGE AND FLAT SEAT. 




ill 




27 



COMBINATION. LARGE HIP AND SEAT AND BOW-LEGGED. 



Measurements used: Seat 43 inches 

Outside 43 inches. Thigh 25 

Inside 31 Knee 20 

Waist 42 " Bottom 16$ " 

Attitude. — Large seat in the third degree, 
large hip and bowdegged. 

To Draft. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is the outside length. 

B to C is the inside length. 

D is half-way between I! and C. 

D to E is 2 inches. 

Square out C, E and B. 

C to F is nil the halves of the seat measure. 

C to (i is \ of the thigh measure. 

( ! to S is 1/24 of the seat measure. 

H is half-way between C and < i. 

Square up from H. 

B to I is ', of the seat measure. 

I to 4 is 1 inch which is advanced for the large 
hip. 

Rule a line from 4 to H. 

4 to 3 is 1 inch for the Bow-legged. 

Rule a line from 3 to M. 

Square back and forth from M. 

Si [uare back from .'! to P. 

;! tn l\ and .'! to P are each \ of the bottom 
measure. 

M to and M to N are each ', of the knee 
measure. 
J to 8 and J to bare each \ of the waist measure. 
Square up from F. 
Rule a line from P to 8. 



K to 8 is the same distance as from K out to 
dotted line in front. 

F to T is -!; of the seat measure. 

Shape the front part from L to 8, 8 to T 
and S, allowing \ inch at T. 

Shape from S to () and l\ and shape L to C 
C to N and N to P. 

Shape from 8 to T and G, reducing \ inch at T 
and shape from (i down to ( ). 

Cut the front part out, place on another paper 
and commence to draw the back part by squar- 
ing across at knee and bottom. 

Sweep from S to W, using point (J as the pivot. 

Sweep from L to Y using point N as the pivot. 

T to 10 is I inch allowed for the large seat 

Sweep up from L using point 10 as the pivot. 

Place corner of square at 10, let long arm of 
the same rest on C and square up, finding point X 

Apply seat measure and add to same If inches, 
from F to C and 10 to Z. 

X to 2 is i of the waist measure plus 1 inch,* [ 

X to Y is $ seat measure plus 1 inch. 

Take out a V as 6 and Q indicates, amounting 
to the distance from 2 to Y minus two seams. 

N to U is \ of the knee measure plus \ inch. 

to Vis '. knee measure plus \ inch. 

P to 5 is ', of the bottom measure plus \ inch. 

I\ to 4 is ', of the bottom measure plus \ inch. 

S to W is 1/ 12 of the seat measure plus \ inch 
and also i the distance between T and 10. 

Shape the back part from Y to li, () to X, X to 
10, and down to W. 

Shape from \V to U and 5, from Y to Z, V and 
4, and 4 to 5 and finish as represented. 



LARGE HIP and SEAT and BOW-LEGS. 




29 



COMBINATION. SMALL HIP, FLAT SEAT AND KNOCK-KNEED. 



The following are the measurements used: 
< )utside 1 1 \ inches. 
Inside 32 

Waist .",1 
Seat 36 
Thigh 12 1 J " 

Knee Is 
Bottom 16 

Flat scat third degree, small hip and knock- 
kneed . 

To Draft. 

A to B is thu outside length. 

B to C is the inside length. 

D is ^ way between B and C. 

D to E is 2 inches. 

Square out C, E and B. 

C to F is on the halves of the scat measure. 

C to G is on the halves of the thigh measure. 

< I to S is 1/24 of the seat measure. 

H is half-way between C and G. 

B to I is J of the seat measure. 

I to 5 is 1 inch for the small hip. 

Rule a line from 5 to 1 f. 

5 to 4 is 1 inch for the knock-kneed. 

Rule a line from 4 to M. 

Square back and forth from M. 

Square back from 1. 

Square up from 11. 

Square back and forth from }. 

J to S and J t<> L are each 1 of the waist meas- 
ure. 

M to and M to N are each \ of the knee meas- 
ure. 

J to R and 4 to P are each \ of the bottom meas- 
ure. 

F to T is ^ of the seat measure. 



Shape from L to 8, from L to C, and N and P' 

Shape from 8 to T and S advancing \ inch at T. 

Shape from S to T and G, reducing \ inch at T. 

Shape from S to G and R. 

Shape from G to 0. 

Shape bottom from P to R. 
Back Part. 

Square across at knee and bottom. 

T to ]() is \ inch for the flat seat . 

Place the corner of the square at 10 and let 
long arm of the same rest on C. 

Rule a line from T to C and square up from 10 
to X. 

Sweep up from L to X, using point 10 as the 
pivot. 

Sweep back from L to Y, using point N as the 
pivot. 

Sweep forth from S to W, using point G as the 
pivot. 

Apply seat measure plus If inches from F to 
C and 10 to Z. 

X to 2 is \ of the waist measure plus \ inch. 

X to Y is \ of the seat measure plus \ inch. 

The V taken out at Q and 6, is the same amount 
as from 2 to Y minus two seams. 

N to U is \ of the knee measure plus \ inch. 

O to V is \ of the knee measure plus \ inch. 

P to 3 is \ of the bottom measure plus \ inch. 

R to 6 is I of the bottom measure plus \ inch- 

S to W is 1/12 of the seat measure plus \ inch, 
minus \ the distance between T and 10. 

Take out a V at Q and 6. 

Shape from Y to Q, 6 to X, X to T, ami T to W. 

Shape from W to U and down to 3. 

Shape from Y to Z, V and 6 and from 6 to 3. 

Finish as represented. 



30 



SMALL HIP, FLAT SEAT AND KNOCK-KNEED. 




hi 



BICYCLE TROUSERS. 



In order to find the inside length correctly we 
will take the full length of the in-seam of an ordi- 
nary pair of trousers. One-half the inside length 
plus 2\ inches will be a good average leg when 

Cuff is added. 

The following are the measurements used : 

Inside 32 inches. .Seat 37 inches 

Rise III " Knee L8 " 

Waist 32 Below the knee 11 

Front Part. 
To Draft. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to C is rise or 10 inches. 

(' tn N is l(i inches or \ the length of the leg. 

X to B is 2\ inches. 

.Square out C, X and B, 

C to F is on the halves of the seat measure. 

F to < '■ is 1/12 of the seat measure,. 

(1 tn S is 1/24 of the seat measure. 

H is halt-way between G and C. 

Square up and down from H. 

J to K and J to L are each \ of the waist measure. 

The front part at the bottom is 1 of the meas- 
ure beli >w the knee equally divided on each side i if I 

Shape the front part from L to Z down to the 
botti mi, extending \ inch at C. 

Shape from K to T and down to S and add \- 
inch at T. 

Shape from K to T and down to G and re- 
duce |- inch at T 

Shape from S down to bottom and G down to 
bottom. 

Cut your fore-part out and place on another 

paper. 

Back Part. 

Square across at knee and below the knee. 
Sweep up fmrn L, using point T as the pivot. 
Sweep back from L, using point X as the pivot. 
S tn Wis 1 \'2 of the seat measure plus \ inch. 
Place corner of square at T. let long arm of the 
same rest on C and rule a line fr< >m TtoC, 



Square up in mi T to X. 

M to V and M and U are each \ inch. 

I to .") and I tu 6 are each \ inch. 

Points 5 to 6 are \ inch above point I. 

5 to R and (J to V are \ of the measure below 
the knee plus \ inch each. 

V to N and U to O are \ of the measure below 
the knee plus '} inch each. 

Apply the seat measure plus If inches from F 
to C and T to Z. 

X to 2 is \ waist measure plus 1 inch. 

X to V is \ of the seat measure plus 1 inch. 

The V taken out at J is the same amount as 
the distance between 2 and Yminus two seams. 

Shape your back part from Y to Z and X to B. 

Shape from Y to 4 and 1 to X, and from X to 
T, down to W, from W to R, B to 6 and 5 to R. 

M to Pis 21 inches. 

Shape from P to U and 5 and from P to 
V and 6. 

There is an opening fn >m B to N which should be 
closed with two buttons or fasteners. 

The back part is reinforced in the seat as the 
dotted line indicates. 

The cuff is ;>', inches wide and closed with 3 
buttons and holes. 

Cuff. 

Draw line I! to E. 

Square down from B. 

B to C is the width of the front part. 

Square down from C. 

B to D is M ' inches. 

Square out from D. 

B to E is 14 inches or the same as the measure 
beL >w the knee. 

Square down from E. 

Extend a button-stand of 1 inch at E and F 
and shape as indicated from B to G and G to E. 

Shape as indicated from D to 11 and 11 to F, 
and finish as represented. 



32 



BICYCLE TROUSERS. 




33 



L.ofC. 



KNICKERS WITH CUFFS ATTACHED. 



These knickers are drafted best from the regular 
measure of trousers with an a snug measure taken 
an uiiiil the knee. 

The following are the measurements used: 

( hitside 4 I I inches. 

Inside 32 

Waist 32 " 

Seat 37 " 

Knee 13 

Bottom of cuff i:U " 
To Draft. 
Square out and down from A. 
A to C is <)k inches, being the distance between 
the outside and inside seam lengths. 
CtoDis I the actual length of the leg. 
D to E is 2\ inches. 
E to B is 3^ inches for cuff. 
Square out from C, D, E and B. 
Cto F is '.. of the seat measure. 
F to (', is 1 12 <>f the seat measure. 
G t<> S is I 24 of the seat measure. 
H is half-way between G and ('. 
Square up and down from H. 
J to K is { i if the waist measure. 
Rule, a line from F to EC 
K to P is \ inch. 

Rule a line from P to J and out to L. 
J to I, is J of tlie waist measure. 
I to R is 1 1 inches. 
Square down from R. 
M to X is | of the knee measure. 
C to 9 is \ inch. 

Shape from L to 9 and R and down to the 
bottom. 

R to ( > is \ i if tin knee measure, L3 on the thirds. 



Square down from (J. 

M to ( ) is ' ; of the knee measure. 

F to T is \ ; of the seal measure. 

Shape from P to T and S, allowing | inch at T. 

Shape from P to 'I' and (1. reducing ', inch at T. 

Shape from S to anil down to the bottom, 

Shape from ( '■ to ( ). 

Place your front part, on another paper and 
commence drafting. 

Back Pari. 

Square up from J. 

Sweep back from L, using point X as the pivot. 

Square out from S. 

| t<> X is ,', ol tlie seat measure. 

Rule a line from T to X. 

'.! to Z is 1 V inches. 

I to 4, ami I to 5 are each \ inch more than \ 
of the knee measure. 

M to J and M to V, is \ inch more than \ of 
the knee measure. 

Apply bottom measure of cull across the front 
part and from 7 to X on back part and add to 
same 1 inch. 

X to 2 is the waist measure plus 1 inch. 

X to Y is tlie seat, measure plus 1 inch. 

Take out a V as indicated by 1 and 6, amount- 
ing to the distance between 2 and Y minus 
two seams. 

Shape back part from Y to Z, V, 5 mid S. 

Shape from Y to (i, 1 to X, X to 4' and 4' to \\'. 

Shape from W to U, 4 and 7. 

Shape from 8 to 7. 

The cuff closes with 4 buttons and holes. 

A button stand is allowed on the back part as 
indicated bv dotted line from ."i to N. 



;;i 



BICYCLE TROUSERS 




35 



RIDING BREECHES. 



The draft is produced from the following mea- 
surements: 

Rise !> \ inches Knee 1 7 incl i 

Inseam 32 Small knee 13 I 

Waist 32 " Call I I " 

Seat :!7 " Ankle 10 

To Draft. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to C is the rise or !)■'. inches. 

C to E is 2 inches less than ' of the inseam 
measure or 1-1 inches. 

C to B is 2 1 inches less than the inseam mea- 
sure. 

E to I) is ."> inches. 

() is half way between B and D. 

Square out (', E, D, O and B. 

C to F is on the halves of the seat measure. 

F to ('■ is 1 12 of the seat measure. 

(i to S is 1 24 of the seat measure. 

II is half way between G and C. 

Square up from H. 

R to 1 is I of the seat measure. 

Rule a line from Ii to I. 

| to K is | of the waist measure. 

K to Q is \ inch. 

Rule a line from to J and out. 

j to L is ] of the waist measure. 

Rule a line from F to K. 

I" to T is I of the seat measure. 



17 to 22 is 



the knee measure. 



Mtol2andMto 13 are each I -of the small 
knee measure. 

28 to II and 28 to II are each ', of the calf 
measure. 

I to 5 and 1 to 6 are each ', of the ankle meas- 
ure. 

M to 24 is 1 J inches. 

28 to 10 is 1 inch. 

I to !i is I inch. 

17 to 20 is I of the knee measure. 

Shape from L to C, extending ] inch at C, 20, 
2 1, 10 and 8. 

In order to have the outside run well toward,-, 
the front, the front part is thus reduced, and 
while I have given the average amount wish to 
say that the exact amount cut off from the fore 
part would vary a little, according to style ; what- 
ever is taken off the front part must be added 
to the back part. 

Shape from <> to T and S, extending ', inch 
at 4". 



Shape from (J to 4' and G reducing \ inch at T 

Shape from S to IS, 12, II and 5. 

Shape fn >m ( '■ to is. 

Extend the waist hand from L to K and the 
!i'( mt part is o impleted . 

Rack Part. 

Cut out the front part and place same on anoth- 
er paper. 

Square across at knee, small knee, call and 
ankle. 

Square up from J. 

Sweep from S to \V using point Is at the pivot. 

Sweep from L to Y using point 20 as the 
pivot. 

J to X is ,', of the seat measure. 

S to \V is fj of the scat measure plus h inch. 

Rule a line from T to X. 

Apply waist measure plus 1 inch from X to 2. 

Apply seat measure plus 1 inch from X to Y. 

Take out a V at 1 and 4 amounting to the 
distance Ret ween 2 and Y minus two seams. 

Apply seat measure plus 1 f inches from F to C 
and T to Z. 

1 7 to P is 2 inches. 

M to U is I of an inch. 

M to V is jj of an inch. 

I to 7, and I to 8 are each ^ inch. 

Points 7 and S are \ inch above point I. 

Shape as indicated from R to 17, U to 28 and 7. 

Shape \r< im P to V, 28 and 8. 

is to 21 is ' inch. 



12 t< 



is 1 inch. 



II to 17) is 1 inch. 

■~i to R is 1 J inches. 

Apply knee measure plus I ', inch from IS to 20, 
21 and 27. 

Apply small knee measure plus 1-1 inches from 
12 to 24, 23 to U and Vto 25. 

Apply the calf measure plus lj inches from II 
to 10, 15 and 16. 

Apply ankle measure plus 1 \ inches from ."> to 
(i, R to 7 and 8 to X. 

Shape side of Rack part from Y to Z, 27. 25, 
16 and X. 

Shape from Y to I, 1 to X, X to T and T toW. 

Shape from W to 21, 23, 15 and R. 

Shape from X to 8 and 7 to R. 

Extend waist band to the top of breeches. 

The inside reinforcement extends from crotch 
down to calf as shown in the diagram; shape 
reinforcement in a like manner and finish as re- 
presented. 



3 a 



RIDING BREECHES. 




nl 





LEGGINGS. 

Measurements used are as follows: 

Length f. 15 inches Calf 13^ inches 

Kneejf 13 inches Ankle 11 inches 

To Draft. 

Utile a line from A. to R. 

A to R. is the length of the legging. 

A to B is 3 i inches. 

R to C is 1 f inches. 

Square back and forth from A, B, C and R. 

A to P is \ the knee measure plus \ inch. 

B to N is i. of the calf measure plus £ inch. 

C to K is I of the ankle measure plus J inch. 

Square down from K. 

Shape as indicated from from P to X and K. 

A to and R to L are each 2 -| inches. 

Rule a line from L to O; this is where you 
place the buttons. 

A to G and R to S are each 2 \ inches . 

Rule a line from G to S. 

L to U is 1 \ inches. 

Square up from U and make this the button- 
stani 1 . 

Shape as indicated from G to F and down to 
the bottom, extending one inch at S. 

Shape the button-stand as indicated by extend- 
ing one inch at U. 

Place buttons on the side as shown in this 
diagram and finish as represented. 

OVER-GAITERS. 

Over-gaiters arc sometimes cut as high as to 
the knee, but on an a verage 9 inches in height. 

We therefore give a diagram of the average, 
and by using the same meth< d for the long gaiter 
i t can so be produced : 

Measurements used : 

Length 9 inches. Ankle 11 inches. 

Leg V2\ Instep 16 

Caff 13" " Bottom 23} " 

To Draft. 

Draw a straight line from A to U. 

Square across from A. 

A to U is tlie length of the gaiter. 

I' to C is -1 niches. 

K is half-way between U and C. 

C to B is 4 inches. 

Square across at B, C and U. 

Square back from R. 

C to E is \ ( >f the ankle measure. 

Square up line from E to F and G. 

G to Pis \ the measure around the leg plus \ in. 

F ti i N is \ thi' measure around the calf 

E to Kis \ the measure around the ankle " 

E to M is ' of the instep measure plus A inch/ 

Jl to S is I of the bottom measure plus h inch. 

Shape as shown in the diagram from G F, E 
ard S. S to V, and M, andfrcm PtoN.KandM. 

Buttons should be placed in the middle of the 
line, and in order to obtain this, add to both 
back and front | inch from line A U. 

Put on heel straps at U and finish as represented. 



38 




. - -~\ 



•--/ 



BROAD FALLS. 

Broad fall trousers are cut the same as 
a ny other trousers with the exception that 
the fall-bearer is an additii in. 

The first diagram shows the broad fall 
pants, the solid line showing the fall- 
bearer. 

Six button-holes are usual in the fall and 
as many buttons in the fall-bearer. 

The bearer is cut high enough to make 
up for the waistband. 

The opening in the side is § of the rise 
of the waist or about 7 or 8 inches. 

Pockets are put in the bearer as in- 
dicated. 

On the back part which the dotted line 
indicates, a waistband must be added. 




SPLIT FALLS. 

The lower diagram shows the older style 
i >r split fall. 

The width of the fall is I of the waist 
measure and the opening is finished with a 
strap 4 inch wide, the end turned in so as 
to make it point as shown in the diagram. 
In other respects they are made like the 
bn >ad falls. 



39 



TROUSERS GRADE. 



Air., trouser pattern can be graded, the only 
difference being, that if yi >u have a gi » >d model you 
will get a good set of patterns, but if you have a 
] r model you will have a poor set of patterns. 

In choosing a model for this grade we will se- 
lect a pattern that is produced from .'32 inseam, 
37 seat, 32 waist, with normal width at knee and 
bottom. In naming my sizes I would use the seat 
measure as a basis. Place the front part on the 
back part in the position in which they have 
been drafted ami find point A, which is half-way 
between 5 and 10 on the front part. Mark off 
the seam thoroughly and mark same through to 
the back part as well. 

Front Part. 

Place front pari upon the paper which you wish 
to make the chart and mark all around the same 
as thi' heavier or middle line indicates. 

.Mark off point A. 

Square across from 10 to 4. 

Remove your model and rule a line from A to 
1, A to 2, A to ::. A to 6, A to 7. A to 8, and A to 9. 

The increases and decreases at 10 and 5 are !, 
of an in< h. 

Continue your increases to 43, and your de- 
creases to 33. 

The increase and decrease at 3 is also | inch. 

The increases and decreases at 6 and are !, 
inch. 

The increase and decrease at 4 is 3 Hi of an inch. 

The increases and decreases at 1 and 2 are 3 l(i 
inch. 

ddie increases and decreases at 7 and S arc \ inch. 

Place your model on the chart and shape your 
43 size from 1 to 10 and 9 to S. 

Shape your 43 size from 1 to 2. 

Move the model towards the front, shape your 
43 size from 2 to 3 and I, and shape a our 43 size 
from 1 to (') and 7. 

Shape \ our 43 size from 8 t< > 7. 

Use your model as the shaper in the same man- 
ner f< >r the 33 size. 

Be sure that you have all your points clcarh 
marked so that the increases and decreases are 
clear. 



This completes the chart for the front part. 

Hack Part. 

Place the model back part on the paper < if 
which you wish to make the chart and proceed in 
the same manner as in the front part. 

Square across as indicated from 10 to 4. 

Rule a line from A to 1, A to 2, A to 3, A to 4, 

A to fi, A to 7, A to s and A to 

Rule a line from A to I, A to T and A to J|. 

The increases and decreases at points 1 ami 2 are 
3/ Hi inch. 

The increases and decreases at I, II and T are 
3/16 of an inch. 

The increases and decreases at points 3, 6, 9 and 
10 are i inch in each case. 

The increases and decreases at 4 are 3/16 inch. 

The increases and decreases at 7 and S are \ inch. 

Use your model as shaper and move it around 
in the same manner as in the front part, shaping 
your 43 size from 1 to T, T to I, H to I, H to 2, 2 
to 3, 3 to 4, 4 to 6, G to 7, 1 to 10, 10 to 9, 9 to 8 
and 8 to 7. 

Shape yi mr 33. size in a like manner from 1 to 10, 
10 to !), 9 to 8 and 8 to 7, 1 to T, T to I, H to 2 
2 to 3, 3 to 4, 4 to 6 and fi to 7, use your model 
as a shaper in the same manner for the 33 size 
and line up the same from point to point , in exact- 
ly the same manner. 

.See that all the points are clearly marked. 

This completes the back part of the Trousers 
Grade. 

In taking the pattern from the chart first mark 
around your 43 size, getting your 43 pattern; re- 
duce your chart to 42 size, place same on the 
block pattern paper and mark around it thereby 
getting your 42 size. Reduce your chart again 
to 41 size, mark around in the same manner as in 
43 and 42 size and you will have your 41 pattern. 
Proceed in like manner until you are down to the 
33 size and you will have your set complete. 



40 



TROUSERS GRADE 





41 



APPENDIX. 



Never jump over or crawl under a problem in cutting you do not understand. Gather all the 
available facilities and make a strenuous effort to bore through the obstacle and your efforts will be 
crowned with success. 



A successful pair of trousers is the result of the harmonious working of science and art. 



By aiming at perfection we make sure of progress. 



Perfection is a visionary ghost for which all are seeking but none have ever attained. 



A correct conception of the figure is a requisite item for successful draping. 



What is grander or nobler than the draping of the human form. It was the first work laid out 
for man by the Almighty Deity. 



A knowledge of the fundamental principles governing the working power of a trousers system 
should be attained bv all desiring to excel in this art. 



It is a common error to imagine that any one can cut trousers, and this common error leads 
the masses of cutters to neglect a subject which is worthy of their best thought. 



Trousers cutting consists of two problems, viz: The fitting of the lower portion of the trunk an< 
the harmonious draping of the lower limbs. 



The poorest cutters are those who know it all, and the besl are those who know of the things 
they do not. know. 



42 



PROPORTIONATE INSEAM OF TROUSERS 

To be Used in Connection with the Table of Sizes for Coats. 



BREAST 


5-4 


5-5 


5-6 


6-7 


5-8 


5-9 


5-10 


5-11 


6-ft 


32 


six 


31V 


32% 


324 


33% 


33^ 


34V 


344 


35V 


33 


31 


31% 


32 


32| 


33 


331 


34 


341 


35 


34 


30% 


31| 


31% 


32| 


32% 


33| 


33% 


341 


341 


35 


30V 


31V 


31% 


32* 


324 


33M 


334 


34V 


341 


36 


30% 


31 


31X 


32 


32% 


33 


33% 


34 


34^ 


37 


30% 


30% 


31% 


314 


32V 


32% 


33V 


334 


34V 


38 


30% 


30% 


31% 


311 


32% 


32? 


33% 


33? 


34% 


39 


30 


3034 


31 


311 


32 


.21 


33 


331 


34 


40 


29V 


30V 


301 


311 


31f 


32^ 


324 


33V 


3Sj 


41 


29% 


30 


30| 


31 


31 % 


32 


32| 


33 


33§ 


42 


2934 


29% 


30| 


301 


31 X 


31% 


321 


321 


331 


43 


29V 


29V 


30 V 


304 


31% 


314 


32V 


824 


33V 


44 


29 


29% 


30 


30% 


31 


31% 


32 


32% 


33 


45 


28% 


29V 


294 


30V 


30% 


31V 


311 


32% 


32| 


46 


28% 


29% 


29| 


30% 


30| 


31 X 


31 1 


32% 


32S 


47 


28| 


29 


29f 


30 


30| 


31 


311 


32 


32S 


48 


28V 


284 


29V 


294 


30% 


304 


31V 


314 


32V 


49 


28 


284 


29 


29* 


30V 


30f 


31 


31 = 


32 


50 


27% 


28| 


28% 


29| 


29% 


301 


301 


31! 


311 



48 







*«VCH 



SfMSs 







3h 



r%c^i^<^^ ■ :■ ill'' I 

• « ■ J JSAKTORIAL ACADEM Y! 

^^® ) ADAMS . EXPRESS BUDC. v— I I I V— 7\VZJ Wj|©^ _ 



yw'" 




PUBLICATIONS. 

THE FOLLOWING PUBLICATIONS MAY BE HAD AT OUR OFFICE: 

The Supreme System of Cutting Coa's and Vests, price $1000 

The Supreme Trousers System " 5 00 

The Supreme Cotter " 5 00 

The Tailor Square Cutter for Ladies' Garments "' 6.00 



PATTERNS. 



PRICE LIST. 



MEN'S 



Special Blocks in Sets 

An) Size from 32 to 42 

Invemes or Cape Overcoats $1.75 51... 00 

Raglan 1.75 15.00 

Surtout Overcoat 1.50 12.00 

S. B. or D. B. Sack Overcoat 125 12.00 

Covert Coat 1.25 10.00 

Dress or Tuxedo Coats 1.25 1000 

S. B. or D. B. Frock Coats 1.25 10.00 

Cutaway Frocks or Walking Coats 1.00 10.00 

Single Breasted or Double Breasted 

Sack Undercoat 1.00 10.00 

Trousers, any style 75 7.00 

Vests, any style 50 6.00 



WOMEN'S 



Special Blocks in Sels 

Any Size from 32 lo 42 

Overgaitnents, plain $1.50 $12.00 

" fancy or with Capes ... 2.00 15.00 

S. B. or 1). B. Jackets 2.00 10.09 

Newmarket 1.75 14.00 

•• Frock Coats 1.25 10.00 

Bodice or Waist 1.00 0.00 

Covert Coats 1.00 10.00 

Vests 50 5.00 

Skirts 1.00 10.00 

6 Sizes 
trom 32 lo 42 

Riding Habits $3.00 $10.00 

" with Trousers 4.00 15.00 

Skirts 2.00 8.00 

Trousers 1.00 5.00 



44 



ggo ^?£f| 



THE 



ART AND 

SCIE/MCE, 

PRACTICA 



AND 





FASHIONABLE 

CUTTER 
£ TAILOR'S 



TECHNICAL 
INFORMATION 



FOR 



CUTTERS andTAILORS. 

— ■ ♦ m 

PUBLISH ED. QUARTERLY 



GAZETTE 



FRED^.T. CROOAIBORG 

187-189 DEARBORN ST. 

CHICAGO. 



THE 


FRED'K 


T. 


CROONBORG 


TAILOR'S 


CUTTING 


SCHOOL 



Ranks higher and has 
greater practical facili- 
ties than any OTHER 
School in America, and 
is the largest institution 
of its kind in the West- 




Full particulars as to 
what we teach and 
how we do it may be 
obtained upon applica- 
tion at our office 



TERMS FOR INSTRUCTIONS. 

TO BE PAID IN ADVANCE. 

Complete cour»e of instruction to Practical Tailors, time unlimited $IOO OO 

Coats alone SO OO 

VesU alone 30 00 

Trousers alone 30 00 



WOMENS. 



Complete course in Women's Garment Cutting 

Basque. .Jackets and all Over Garmenta 

Bodice. SleeTe and Skirts 

THE TAILOB SQUARE CUTTER WITH INSTRUCTIONS 



PRACTICAL CUTTERS. 

Desiring to change systems, limited to 12 days, Coats. Vests and Trousers. 

floats alone 

Vests alone 

Trousers alone 

Fittings aud Individuality 

GRADING 



SPECIAL. 

To persons not being practical tailors, the charge for a full course. 



100 00 
50 00 
30 00 
20 00 



SO 00 
30 00 
15 OO 
15 00 
25 00 
50 00 



ISO 00 



SPECIAL FEATURE. 

Practical Cutters. 

For Special and Private Instructions in measuring, drafting or enplaiuing points in Coats, Vests, 
Trousers or Grading. Cutting by Block Patterns, or Women's Garment Cutting, or any points 
pertaining to tailoring in general occupying from one hour to one day. $5.00 tO $25.00. 

THE FRED'K T. CROONBORG CUTTING SCHOOL. 

ADAMS EXPRESS BUILDING, CHICAGO. 



